The Medina

It's been amazing so far!  While most of our friends stuffed themselves with turkey, Shirene and I took on the Medina, the 'Old City', and wandered the maze of lanes and alleys looking at hundreds of stalls of merchandise just crying to be bartered over.  

If you can see the salmon pink ramparts of the old walled city, you're either just outside or just inside the medina.  Apparently not much has changed here since the middle ages.  The maze of alleys was designed to confuse invaders; however, someone was a visionary - it now confuses tourists who spend like crazy while trying to find an exit!

It isn't only people who crowd the medina.  Hundreds, if not thousands, of small motorcycles (think small Suzuki size) worm their way through followed by cycles and carts of goods drawn by mules or people.  Essentially, get out of the way - they don't stop for you and more than a few people were clipped as they passed.

At the centre of the medina is a huge open square with vendors of various types that change throughout the  day.  We decided to leave this for an evening visit and turned our hand to bartering at the edge of the square.  A good place to practice and also learn that when the vendor isn't happy, they become rather ugly.  What started as a 200 dirham (approx $20) call by the vendor turned in my favor to 50DH - and then he asked for money for himself in addition to the 50 he gave the owner.  I refused - not part of the bargain.  Definitely NOT what he expected to hear!

Bartering is an interesting process:

"How much do you want?"
"I will give you a special price - just for you."

And the game begins...   Customer makes first offer, acknowledging the quality of the merchandise.  Counter offer and a quick mention of the outstanding quality ("better than any other place").  Offer and counter offer go back and forth until a price is agreed upon.  Of course, if you start too low, or don't budge or even barter, you may not get the chance to purchase!

Three hours later we drifted out of the medina with a few purchases and an idea of what we want to look for as we travel to a variety of cooperatives on the rest of the tour.  Oh - of course, the traditional cocktail awaited us at the hotel happy hour.

We met Mohamed, our tour guide, and Peter, a tour companion, in the evening.  G Adventures gave us lovely welcome gifts - scarves to be worn in the desert.  And then off to supper - a traditional restaurant above the medina. Bread, dates, olives, soup, tagine, fruit and almond pastries as well sumptuous mint tea - OMG!  Waddle, waddle, waddle to the square to see dancing, drumming and lamps for sale, lit with candles.  Absolutely beautiful!  A great way to end an eventful day!